Showing posts with label Grass. Show all posts

Cardboard Boxes for Raised Garden Beds

Posted by Unknown in Advise and Tips, Gardening, Grass, Raised Bed Gardening on Tuesday, 14 May 2013

Lay down a thick layer of cardboard in your raised garden beds to kill the grass. It is perfectly safe to use and will fully decompose, but not before killing any grass below it. They’ll also provide compost and food for worms.

20 Plants for Garden Pathways Which Can Handle Foot Traffic

Posted by Unknown in Gardening, Grass on Wednesday, 8 May 2013

Here is a list of some very common plants which you can use to decorate the walkways of your garden.

20 Plants for garden pathways which can handle foot traffic

1. Irish moss

2. Alchemilla alpine or Alpine Lady’s Mantle

3. Brass Buttons or Leptinella Squalida

4. Baby’s tears Soleirolia Soleirolii\

5. Creeping Jenny or Lysimachia Nummilaria

6. Beach strawberry

7. Ghymus Pseudolanuginosus or Woolly Thyme

8. Isotoma Fluviatilis or Blue Star creeper

9. Turkish Veronica

10. Corsican mint or Mentha Requienii

11. Mazus Reptans

12. Roman Chamomile

13. Labrador violet

14. Barren strawberry

15. Iceplants

16. Japanese Spurge

17. Plumbago

18. Ajuga or Bugleweed

19. Pussytoes

20. Lysimachia nummularia or Creeping Jenny

Forage Crops for Goats in Philippines

Posted by Unknown in Goat Farming, Grass, Grazing, Philippines, Silage and Forage on Tuesday, 29 January 2013

(Sun Star Davao) The increasing demand for goat meat is a boon to farmers engaged in goat-raising, making backyard and commercial projects a promising investment field.

As in any other industry, a decisive factor in the development of a commercially viable goat raising industry is the product. As everybody in livestock-raising knows, the right choice of feeds has a direct bearing on the quality of the meat.

"Goats should be fed nutritious feeds on a year round basis," says Roy C. Alimoane, director of the Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center (MBRLC) Foundation Inc. in Kinuskusan, Bansalan, Davao del Sur.

The question is how? "Native grasses decline fast, have low volume per hectare, are inadequate for high stocking rates, and do not respond well to fertilization," Alimoane explains.

Obviously, the solution is to plant new, improved, and more efficient grass and legume species, which are palatable to goats. A 50-50 combination of both provides three advantages: 1) it improves milk production and chevon quality, 2) fertilizes the soil, and 3) helps prevent soil erosion.

Every pasture land is unique. The variables are soil, elevation, climate, and location. Certain types of grasses and legumes will grow well in one area, badly in another. Goat raisers should put up test plots and secure technical advice and, depending on the performance of different species, gradually expand.

Some of the promising pasture and forage crops for goats are star grass, napier grass, guinea grass and para grass for grasses and ipil-ipil, centrosema, stylo, siratro, kakawate, kadios, flemingia, and rensonii for legumes.

Star grass (Cynodon plestostachyus) -- A very aggressive, creeping perennial, this East African native grass can easily crowd pasture grasses and legumes. It is very resistant to trampling and drought but tends to become very stemmy when mature. Above average in crude protein, young stands are relished by goats. It responds well to fertilization and, with cuttings, is easily established.

Spreading quickly, star grass effectively holds sandy soils along waterways and embankments. It's very tolerant to grazing and trampling and is particularly useful in alleys and paddocks near the corral which are frequently over stock.

Star grass grows well in the Cagayan Valley, Negros Occidental, North and South Cotabato and Davao provinces. It blends well with centrosema.

Napier grass (Pennisetum purpureum) -- Also known as elephant grass, this is the most popular improved pasture species in the country because of its vigor, productivity, drought tolerance, and relative ease in establishing it. Like the star grass, it responds well to fertilization.

While unable to tolerate water logging, this species grows under many soil conditions. Although commonly used for soilage and silage, it may be grazed. It also makes excellent stands with legumes like centrosema and siratro.

Napier grass, which is a similar to sugarcane in appearance, can be propagated commercially by means of stem cuttings. If it is not grazed and allowed to become overgrown, napier grass becomes tall and stemmy. It is an excellent species for zero grazing in goat-raising. Napier grass is low in crude protein.

Guinea grass (Panicum maximum) -- This African native grows on a wide range of soil but is better suited to medium to highly fertile soil. It responds well to high level of nitrogen fertilization.

Like the napier grass, it cannot tolerate water logging. Guinea grass can be established commercially using rootstocks and seeds. It grows well with legumes, like centrosema and stylo, and under trees of semi-cleared conditions. Guinea grass is only average in crude protein.

Para grass (Brachiaria mutica) -- This species has become popular due to its ability to grow well under waterlogged conditions. A trailing grass that roots freely at the nodes, it responds well to nitrogen fertilizer. It is best suited for low flat lands and where poor drainage is a problem.

Para grass is a common weed in irrigation channels and drainage ditches. It is extensively used in Davao's low coastal goat and coconut farms as well as in the Bukidnon's highlands (up to 760 meters above sea level).

Like napier grass, it’s very easy to establish from stem cuttings. It is not as resistant to grazing as guinea grass, but para grass seems to be the goats’ favorite grass. It is average in crude protein.

Ipil-ipil (Leucaena leucocephala) -- This is a perennial shrub or tree. Ipil-ipil leaves are bipinnate with white head inflorescence. It is recommended as a folder crop for backyard goat-raising. The young stem and leaves can be dried and pulverized into leaf and stem meal or it may be fed as fresh-cut forage.

Although ipil-ipil contains an undesirable alkaloid called mimosine, which causes feather loss in poultry and hair loss in horses and pigs, goats can be fed high levels of ipil-ipil without any adverse effects. Ipil-ipil is very high crude in protein.

Centrosema (Centrosema pubsecens) -- This is a trailing and climbing perennial with bright purple flowers weakly rooting at the nodes. Centrosema grows well even on acidic soil and is adaptable to the high rainfall areas in the eastern part of the Philippines.

Like other species, it combines well with many grasses. Moderately tolerant of waterlogged conditions, it is recommended for grazing under coconut trees. In feed value, it is high in crude protein and goats find it every palatable.

Siratro (Phoseolus atropurpureus) -- A twining perennial with many branched hairy stems and trifoliate leaves with distinctive indentations on the margins, it grows on a wide variety of soils, is drought resistant, mixes with grasses, and seeds profusely.

Although siratro is susceptible to Rhixonctonia during the rainy season, it recovers quickly in summer. This species is not widespread and seed are very hard to obtain. Siratro is high in crude protein.

Calliandra (Calliandra calothyrsus) -- A shrub that rarely reaches more than ten meters tall, calliandra with its red flowers is usually grown as an ornamental. While it does not produce seeds readily, it grows very well in Mindanao.

Calliandra grows on many different soils, including infertile ones; it even grows in heavily compacted clay-type soils with poor aeration. Per fresh and dry weight basis, it has crude protein content of 9.42 percent and 28.26 percent, respectively. But the leaves are high in tannins which may restrict absorption of the protein. As such, it should be fed with other legumes and grasses.

Kakawate (Gliricidia sepium) -- This is small tree that grows up to 10 meters high. It has an open crown and often contorted trunk that is 30 centimeter or less in diameter. It does well in moist and dry soil, even with heavy concentration of limestone. In addition, it can tolerate acidic soil.

The leaves contain over 20 percent crude protein and are nutritious for livestock. When given to goats, it should be mixed with other legumes and grasses.

Kadios (Cajanus cajan) -- A woody shrub that can grow as tall as 3.6 meters, it can be grown in a wide range of soils but cannot withstand water-logging. It thrives in light sandy soils, but grows best in neutral deep loams. The pods, husks, and foliage can be used for feeding goats. The dry seeds contain about 22 percent protein.

Flemingia (Flemengia macrophylla) -- This is a shrub attaining two to three meters in height. It has deep root system and produces dense foliage. It looks somewhat similar to kadios but does not produce edible beans. It is somewhat shade and fire-resistant. Per fresh and dry weight basis, it has six percent and 18 percent crude protein, respectively.

Rensonii (Desmodium rensonii) -- This is an erect shrub which grows well in moist areas with even rainfall distribution. It can be planted by seeds or by cuttings. It is very fast growing with good foliage production, yielding 1.9 kilograms per linear meter of hedgerow. Its coppicing ability is excellent.

With a crude protein content (23%) rivaling alfalfa in the temperate climates, rensonii has been successfully tested at the MBRLC as an animal feed not only for goats, but sheep, cattle, rabbits, and swine as well.

How To Grow Cool Season Pastures

Posted by Unknown in Cattle and Livestock, Grass, Grazing, Pasture, Silage and Forage on Sunday, 27 January 2013

Well managed cool-season pasture in southern Iowa. NRCS offer.
Photo by Lynn Betts, USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. (1999)

By John Howle

A cool-season pasture can dramatically reduce your need for stored feed and extend your grazing season through the winter months. The key to having winter grazing is stockpiling or saving forage for winter, picking hearty cool-season forage to plant, and practicing rotational grazing. With adequate rainfall, you’ll be set for success this winter.

David Wright has 65 cows in his dairy operation in Alexandria, Ala., and his cattle graze throughout the winter, eliminating his need for stored hay.

“I can have high-quality winter forage through my ryegrass from November until May,” Wright says. “The only time I’ve had to feed hay is during drought years.”

In the 1990s, dairy farming across the U.S. changed, with large commercial dairies replacing small family-owned-and-operated dairies. Wright realized that competing with commercial operations was possible by downsizing his herd and feeding only grass to his cows.

“Our cows were healthier and happier, the milk was higher quality, the tractors were in the fields less, and my wife, Leianne, and I had more time to spend with our children,” he says.

Wright’s operation centers on dairy cows, but the principles he’s learned can be applied to winter grazing for any type of livestock. His search for the best forage-management practices has led him overseas to places like New Zealand, Africa and Ireland.

“When you look closely and walk through the fields in other countries where rotational grazing is truly effective and stored-feed expenses are high, you see the importance of making grazing available through the winter,” Wright says.

He adds that by establishing winter pastures, rotating grazing and stockpiling forage, winter hay can be virtually eliminated from livestock diets, as long as fertilizer and rainfall amounts are adequate.

Stock Up on Forage

Stockpiling fescue can extend the grazing season up to 60 days, according to Gary Bates, PhD, forage specialist with the University of Tennessee.

“Fescue stockpiling is simple,” Bates says. “About the first of September, either graze or clip the pastures to remove all the mature forage. Then apply 60 pounds of nitrogen per acre after the fall rains begin. Then allow the fescue to grow as long as possible without grazing, even up to a killing frost.”

Bates recommends rotationally grazing fescue when possible so that less of the forage is trampled and wasted by the cattle.

“Tall fescue that is stockpiled for winter forage can be grazed down to 2 inches since the plant is dormant and not trying to grow,” Bates says. “It will lose some quality over the winter, but research has shown that the protein content will remain at 10 percent, even into February.”

The only time stockpiling fescue doesn’t work is during periods of limited rainfall.

“Stockpiled fescue makes substantial growth during autumn, and the waxy layer on its leaves makes it resistant to frost damage and weathering,” says Auburn University professor emeritus and retired extension agronomist Don Ball. “In addition, tall-fescue forage accumulates a high concentration of soluble carbohydrates in the fall and maintains its quality through the winter.”

Ball says that producers should closely examine the relationship between stockpiled fescue and other cool-season forages versus hay-production costs.

“Many cattle producers in the South, for instance, are feeding hay for 120 days or more,” he says. “However, some producers have developed approaches, such as stockpiling and planting additional cool-season forages, that allow them to feed little or no hay in some years.”

Some fescue carry endophyte fungus, which can affect the health of your livestock. Look for endophyte-free fescue to avoid fescue toxicosis in cattle as well as birth defects and premature labor in pregnant mares.

Seed Your Pastures

Once warm-season forage goes dormant, seeding cool-season, annual forage in the pastures can extend the grazing season.

“Ryegrass is normally broadcast or drilled into dormant sods of warm-season species,” Ball says. “Small grains and ryegrass, often with an annual clover, are planted on a prepared seedbed.”

Cool-season clovers provide winter forage and reduce your fertilizer bill. Red clover—nicknamed cow clover—is a hearty variety that germinates well and is adapted for growth in the eastern half of the U.S. White clover varieties also provide hearty growth and produce nitrogen in the nodules of the root system, delivering nutrients back to the soil.

Clover can be planted on a prepared seedbed, drilled or even frost-seeded. Frost-seeding, the least labor-intensive method, requires no equipment other than a hand sower. Simply sow the clover on top of the grazed forage or seedbed, and the frosting and heaving of the soil in cold weather will create the seed-to-soil contact necessary for germination. Some producers frost-seed and allow the livestock to trample the seed into the ground via hoof traffic.

Cool-season grasses, such as ryegrass, wheat and oats, germinate well and provide plenty of winter grazing. Before purchasing seeds, check with your local extension office or university agronomist to find out which cool-season grasses and clovers grow best in your area. Also, check with fellow hobby farmers in your area to see what species have performed well for them in seasons past.

Fertilize the Pastures

As with any planted forage, fertilizer is a major component of success. With the proper amount of rainfall (i.e., average for your area), the nitrogen—whether in commercial or organic form—will help the grass grow fast and green. A soil test is the only way to accurately determine how much fertilizer to apply. Once the soil report comes back, the soil analysis will show your soil’s pH, so you can determine if the pasture needs lime and fertilizer and in what amounts.

On a typical bag of commercial fertilizer, you’ll see three numbers indicating the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. For instance, ammonium nitrate will have the numbers 34-0-0 on the bag, which means there are 34 pounds of nitrogen for every 100 pounds of fertilizer. A bag of 13-13-13 has 13 percent each of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium.

For Wright’s winter pastures, consisting mostly of Marshall ryegrass, he applies cow manure from his dairy barn at a rate of approximately 60 pounds per acre. In August, he lightly disks his fields, then broadcasts ryegrass seeds in mid-September. As the seeds are broadcast, he uses a cultipacker, an implement that packs the seed into the soil on a prepared seedbed as it’s pulled behind a tractor. The cultipacker also helps firm the soil and prevent erosion in the event of large amounts of rainfall.

If you plan to use an organic fertilizer, such as cattle, poultry or rabbit manure, it’s important to get an analysis of its content to know just how much fertilizer you’re actually getting. Most land-grant universities will analyze manure for its nutrient levels. Although typically lower in nutrient quality than commercial fertilizer, due to its high organic content, organic fertilizer builds the soil while commercial fertilizer does not.

“Fertilizer will be the biggest expense in creating plentiful winter forage for livestock,” Bates says. “However, it’s cheaper to grow the forage than it is to produce the hay and feed it.”

Cutting, raking and baling hay is a big expense, not to mention the issue of storage. Although you may not be able to entirely eliminate feeding hay, the amount fed can be greatly reduced when the forage is growing live.

Implement Rotational Grazing

Wright rotationally grazes 5-acre paddocks. He says the only feed he supplements with the ryegrass pasture is grain with added minerals.

“The grain I use has magnesium and calcium,” he explains. “The magnesium guards against grass tetany, and the calcium prevents milk fever.”

According to Wright, his rotational grazing is keeping nutrients on the farm.

“When you cut hay, you are removing nutrients from the field in the hay,” he says. “When the cows graze the grass, they are getting the nutrients they need as well as returning many of those nutrients back to the soil in their droppings.”

It’s important not to graze the forage to less than 2 inches when using rotational grazing. If livestock are allowed to graze too long, weeds will be given a greater opportunity to sprout, the forage will become excessively trampled, and the plants’ root systems and overall quality will be stressed.

Spring into Action

Bates recommends evaluating the forage quality in spring to determine the forage needed in the winter.

“When the forage is about 8 inches tall, walk over the stand to estimate what percent of the ground is covered with leaves, and if there is 70 percent or better coverage, just add clover,” he says. “If there’s 40 to 70 percent, you can drill more tall fescue in the fall once it has been grazed low and the ground moisture is higher.”

If the stand is less than 40 percent, Bates recommends killing it and replanting.

The onset of cold weather doesn’t mean you have to stop grazing livestock and put them on hay.

There are plenty of cool-season forage options for extending your grazing season well into the cold months of the year. Your livestock and your wallet will reap the benefits.

About the Author: John Howle is a freelance writer, hobby farmer, English teacher, and singer/songwriter from Heflin, Ala. He and his wife and three children share the rich farming heritage handed down to them by their ancestors.

This article originally appeared in the November/December 2011 issue of Hobby Farms.

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