Mexican Avocados
Posted by Unknown in Avocado on Sunday, 9 September 2012
Once established, avocados are fairly tough trees. However, many avocados fail during the first 12 months due to poor soil drainage, sunburn or improper irrigation habits. Follow these easy guidelines for success.
Care of Avocado Trees
Prior to planting: Keep avocado in the pot until late March and bring inside if there is going to be a frost or freeze.
Selecting a Planting Site: Avocados are large plants. They can grow to 30 feet tall and their footprint can be 15’ or 20’ across. Of course, you can prune them to be smaller. They like as much sun as you can provide. They like to be well drained after a rain or watering. So, a large sunny spot with good drainage is best.
Cold and heat protection: Avocados need protection from both frosts and the sun for the first couple of years.
Protection from frosts and freezes: When a severe freeze is being forecast, mound additional soil around the trunk for extra protection, then water thoroughly two or three days before the cold weather is expected. Young trees can be draped (not wrapped) with a blanket or quilt (never plastic) during the freeze event. The corners of the covering should be pulled outward and anchored to the ground. Any additional practical heat source under the tented tree will probably save even the leaves. Examples include incandescent lights, decorative lights, electric heaters and camp lanterns or stoves. Once the avocados have a couple of years growth, they will not need this protection, for the varieties sold at the fruit tree sale are cold hardy.
Protection from the sun: Avocados have almost no brown, woody bark like other plants. Notice that the stems and main branches of your tree are bright green. These branches and stems are photosynthesizing and providing food and energy for your tree, just like the leaves. However, this green tissue on the stems and bark is very susceptible to sunburn. Young trees do not have enough leaves to shade this bark and some special care should be given during this first year or two. One option is to paint the green trunk and main branches with a whitewash. This can be easily made by diluting a white latex paint with an equal part of water and painting it on the trunk and branches, but not the leaves. Reapply as needed until the tree grows enough foliage to shade itself, usually within a year or two. Another option is to build a simple structure of metal, wood or PVC to which can be attached a cloth that will keep the mid-day and afternoon sun off the trunk. A burlap-covered cage about a foot higher than the tree is commonly placed around the tree in the Valley for both shading and wind protection.
Fertilizing: Commence feeding of young trees after one year of growth, using a balanced fertilizer, four times yearly; but all fertilizing is done after blooming when fruit is set.
Watering: After drainage, proper irrigation is the most critical factor effecting the establishment of your new avocado. Unless drainage is quick, even the most careful attention to watering will not help. Over irrigation can induce root rot, which is the most common cause of avocado failure. To test to see if irrigation is necessary, dig a hole a few inches deep and test the soil by squeezing. If it is moist (holds together), do not irrigate; if it crumbles in the hand or is obviously dry, it may be watered. Never enter winter with wet soil. Avocado trees may not need irrigation during the winter rainy season, but watch for prolonged mid-winter dry spells.
Harvesting: Avocado fruit does not ripen on the tree; nor does it fall to the ground when ripe. Avocado maturity, if unknown, can be easily determined, as the fruit is mature when it will soften to good eating quality. Most of the avocados will be ready to pick in the early fall. Pick a couple of fruit and set them on the kitchen counter (out of direct sun). A mature fruit will soften within three days to two weeks. If the fruit don't soften, try again every week or so with new fruit until you achieve softening and good taste. A key to harvesting is picking the fully grown fruit and allowing the smaller fruit to grow big before picking. Mexican variety avocados, the kind sold at the fruit tree sale, are thin skinned and will not store for a long time, so they must be used shortly after harvesting. If fruit is high on the tree, use a long handled picking pole with a sharp “V” on the metal rim to cut the stem and a strong cloth bag to catch the fruit.
Varieties of Avocados for the Houston Area Climate
- Opal® Originated in Uvalde, Texas. This is a cold hardy Mexican avocado. The medium sized pear-shaped fruit is very rich tasting. The skin is green in color.
- Wilma™ Originated near Pearsall, Texas. This is a cold hardy Mexican avocado The fruit is large in shape and has a very good flavor. The skin is black in color.
- Fantastic Avocado Green, paper thin skin, most cold hardy of all the Mexican avocados. The fruit has a creamy texture with fantastic flavors. Eat skin and all. It is a vigorous growing beautiful tree.
- Joey avocado Founded by Joey Ricers in Uvalde, Texas. The fruit is medium in size and egg shaped. It has excellent flavor. This skin is purple-black in color. Heavy bearer.
- Poncho avocado A medium-large green fruit, cold hardy Mexican avocado.
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This entry was posted on Sunday, 9 September 2012 at 00:07 and is filed under Avocado. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0. You can leave a response.
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